This cabin is named for the county itself — carved out of parts of five neighboring counties in the silver spring of 1864. Markleeville that year had 168 houses, a telegraph line from Genoa, and a population of 2,620. The ore turned out to be the stubborn kind, and by 1868 the county's population had fallen below 1,200 on its way to 685.

What the bust left behind is the point. Today Alpine County counts about 1,204 people — the fewest of any county in California — across land that is roughly 96 percent public. The Chamber of Commerce keeps its own famous list: no traffic light, no bank, no movie theater, no dentist, no supermarket.

The list is not an apology. The passes still close each winter and the night sky still gets genuinely dark. The county courthouse, built in 1928 of stone quarried above the ghost town of Silver Mountain City, stands on the original 160 acres its murdered founder staked. The county that expected to rival Virginia City is the quietest corner of California instead.

The whole boom-and-bust story is told in Silver Fever, in The Story.